What do the vintages 1973, 1979, and 1986 have in common? From generation to generation, the corresponding barrique barrels, their contents, and their vintage history have been passed down within the Berta family. In May of this year, the time was ripe to unlock this distillate treasure.
Since 1947, the name Berta has been firmly associated with the art of distilling in Piedmont across generations. Grappa, of course, but not only that. In this year’s special edition, the Berta family story is not about grappa for once, but about brandy. Brandy? That’s the name for the distillate produced by distilling wine. Grappa (or marc) is a pomace brandy distilled from pressed grape skins, while brandy is a wine brandy. In France, specifically in the departments of Charente and Charente-Maritime, it is called Cognac; in Gascony, it is called Armagnac. Apart from these controlled designations of origin, countries like England, Spain, and Italy primarily use the word brandy. That’s the quick product knowledge to start with. All clear?
In May of this year, Berta released a brandy series that was planned a long time ago. It could also be called a legacy. “Legàmi” – these are three limited-edition wine brandies of different ages: 51, 45, and 38 years, which rested quietly and secluded in various wooden barrels. From father to son, from grandfather to grandson, definitely a high-proof and highly respected heritage over the years. If you tried to translate the word “legàmi” (“bind me”) into German, you would probably speak of a “bond” that holds the family together. These well-cared-for, matured, and nurtured brandies connect the individual family members inseparably, almost like blood ties – sip by sip.
“We really like brandy,” says Giulia Berta. She is responsible for communication in the family business and is the daughter of Enrico, called Chicco. “We have been producing brandy for years; they are an elegant and refined distillate with a fine soul that offers wonderful sensory experiences. Because we have always felt comfortable in niches, on a small scale, and in a handcrafted, family dimension, wine brandies are a sensual enrichment of our production,” she says.
The difference in the Legàmi brandies lies in the barrel aging: “It is a long story of care and attention, not only over time but also spatially. Paolo began working on these barrels in the old distillery in Nizza Monferrato, and when we moved to Mombaruzzo, we took them with us to the current distillery,” says Annacarla, the daughter of Gianfranco, who passed away in 2015. Together with her mother Simonetta and Chicco, Annacarla and Giulia are leading Distillerie Berta into the future. Just as a reminder: Paolo founded the distillery in 1947. So the selection is like a piece of history for the family, to which they all have a deep emotional connection, Annacarla continues. “When we think that Paolo filled the brandies into the barrels, it feels as if we are holding something that belonged to our grandfather and as if he is still with us,” she adds. It is not just a memory but something incredibly alive and full of energy.
“The collection also reminds us that what we do should not be limited to the here and now. If we do our work properly, we can create something that will be appreciated and enjoyed many years later,” says Giulia Berta. It is also true that brandy was much less known back then, when the distillates were put into barrels, compared to Cognac or Armagnac, and was therefore considered less valuable. Over time, the image has changed, and the brandy in the Berta barrels has matured more and more. Why did the family decide just now to carefully bottle them into noble decanters? “Quite simply,” says Giulia Berta, “because we liked them! When we tasted the brandies, it seemed the right time had come. All three now have a remarkable age and are still very different; each variety expresses its own facet of brandy.” And Annacarla notes: “We liked the idea of releasing three bottles at the same time because each brandy has its own clearly defined personality and is practically waiting to be discovered as it is.”
In May, the three brandies were presented as a rarity for lovers in a limited collection. The distillates were made from wines of the region, carefully selected and slowly distilled using the house’s steam method, then aged over the years. In various types of barrels and, of course, without any coloring or flavoring additives. A proud brandy series from Piedmont, ideal for collectors and lovers of aged and rare distillates, as the quantities are naturally very limited due to the lengthy and extensive project. “There are only a few thousand bottles,” reveals Giulia Berta. Fortunately, the Vergani family has worked closely and amicably with the Bertas for decades.
